Chimney Liner Installation

A chimney liner is the tube inside the masonry, made of clay tile, stainless steel or cast-in-place concrete, that carries smoke and combustion gases out of the house. It keeps heat away from the wood framing around the chimney, keeps carbon monoxide from seeping through gaps in the brick, and protects the masonry from the acids in exhaust. National fire safety standards require a working liner on every chimney that serves a fireplace or heating appliance.

Look for pieces of clay tile or mortar in the firebox, smoke backing into the room, a creosote or tar smell indoors when nothing is burning, rust on the damper or connector pipe, and flaking brick or white staining on the outside of the chimney. Damage is also likely after any chimney fire. Because most cracks are above the damper, a camera scan of the flue is the only way to confirm it.

No. Cracks let heat reach the framing around the chimney and let carbon monoxide into living spaces. Stop using the fireplace or appliance until the flue has been scanned and either repaired or relined.

For relining an existing chimney, stainless steel. It handles wood, gas, oil and pellet fuel, resists the acidic condensation that breaks down clay, heats up quickly for a stronger draft, and a flexible liner can navigate bends. Grade 304 suits wood-burning systems and grade 316 suits gas and oil. Clay tile is a sound choice for new construction with a straight flue and an open wood fireplace, but it cracks under thermal shock and is difficult to repair once installed.

Stainless steel liners commonly last 20 years or more and often carry a lifetime warranty. Clay tile liners last anywhere from 15 to 50 years depending on how hard they are used and how many freeze-thaw winters and chimney fires they survive. Cast-in-place liners commonly last 30 to 50 years. Yearly inspection catches wear on any of them before it becomes a hazard.

A standard stainless steel reline of a single flue is usually completed in one day, including the camera scan, installation, connection and final check. Multiple flues, heavy creosote that must be removed first, or masonry repairs to the crown or smoke chamber can add a day.

In almost every case, yes. An insert needs a liner sized to its outlet and connected directly to it. Venting an insert into an oversized, open masonry flue lets gases cool and condense, builds creosote fast, and is not permitted by most manufacturers or codes.

Flexible liner kits are sold, but relining is a complex job: the liner has to be sized correctly for the appliance, insulated properly, worked down a flue that may have offsets, sealed at the top plate and connected securely at the bottom, all from a roof. An incorrect install leaks heat and gas into the house. A professional install also includes a camera scan before and after, which is the only proof the flue is sound.

Sometimes. If the damage was caused by a sudden event such as a chimney fire, lightning or a storm, it may be covered. Deterioration from age, freeze-thaw cycles or deferred maintenance usually is not. A written inspection report with camera photos is helpful either way.

It depends on the height and diameter of the flue, the liner grade, whether insulation is required, the number of bends, the appliance it connects to, and whether creosote removal or masonry repair is needed first. Every job is quoted after a camera inspection. Contact us for a personalized estimate.